Surfing Makes Me Shweepies

Yesterday was my first time surfing and it was INCREDIBLE. Yes, I know, I've been here for a month and I haven't surfed before now, what was I thinking, yaddah yaddah yaddah. Well okay, I've started and now it'll take a lot to make me stop. My friends Kyle, Chris, and Austin came down from Surfer's yesterday and we borrowed a few of Dimo's boards. Kyle is a surf instructor back in Santa Barbara so she was a perfect person to help me out. She's used to teaching kids ten years younger than me and so her habits of cheering and thumbs up transfered to yesterday's lesson. But hey, positive reinforcement works for me and I didn't feel like too much of a kook when I'd look back at her with a huge grin of accomplishment when I got my foot placement right for the first time. I managed to get up on all but one wave!

Sadly, that was not the same for this morning's attempt. Maddy and I went out to the same spot but the waves were bigger and the water was too deep to stand (usually there's a sand bank or the tide is right so the water level is low). Just swimming "out the back", beyond where the waves are breaking, wiped me out and then the treading water didn't help. My lil chicken arms definately need to bulk up. I tried getting up a few times but my timing was off and I was in the wrong spot. I let Maddy take over and I just bobbed there marveling at her abilities. We swam back to the beach and discussed the wide array of physical/mental abilities needed for surfing before walking back home.

I was ready for bed again but we ended up driving to a board shop to see if I could find a cheap one. Cuz it's the end of the summer all the beginner boards have already been purchased but I shall find one and then Maddy and I will be able to go out on our separate boards and won't tire out so easily. Also, Kyle wants to have someone to paddle out with her and although I'll be messing around on the white water while she shows everyone up we can at least grab brekkie together after and have a surfing buddy on speed dial. Grabbed a few groceries at the store and then came home and finished The Godfather, Part II. Maddy and Dimo are determined to make me love these movies. It's working but it's such a clever trilogy that I need to watch them all again to pick up on everything. Already a fan of Scarface, though. I'm determined to reciprocate the movie-loving exchange by showing Maddy Planet Earth and Ferngully. Planet Earth because it's great and yay learning and Ferngully because there is a hike about 40mins south of here on Mt. Warning (no joke!...cept I feel like few, if any, readers of this blog know what I'm talking about) and I want us to climb it so we can be the humans on Mt. Warning and, therefore, we are nice humans and the fairies will have nothing to worry about. I like how some of my friends have goals of shark diving or Figi trips and one of my major goals while in Australia is to materialize a reference in an animated film. Silly Char.

Anyway, after we left the gun, took the canolies, went to the mattresses, and made offers he can't refuse I went shweepies on the couch cuz two days of surfing will do that I suppose. I made sure to wake up for fresh chips that Dimo brought home from the fish and chip shop around the corner. Hmm, I'm thinking of what I did next today but it seems I've been very sloth-like.

I was pretty impressed by my dinner though. I was extremely apathetic about food when I opened the fridge so I ended up just throwing some mushrooms, broccoli, celery, baby tomatoes, and tofu into a saucepan and hoping it would taste alright. That sounds kind of impressive but I started out planning on just chewing on a stick of celery and popping tomatoes straight into my mouth from the carton so there was some progression I suppose. I added some salt, pepper, and veganaise to the saucepan and once the broccoli went soft and some steam appeared I figured it was done. See, there's my college kid cooking skills materializing. My concoction turned out tasty and I nommed it all up very quickly. A little too quickly at times that my eyes started watering.

Now Silence of the Lambs is starting and already it reminds me why I would be interested in criminal psychology if the drug/alcohol rehab career path (among a handful of others) falls through. Okay, but here's a fun fact from Silence of the Lambs at least one of you will know: Dr. Hahn from Grey's Anatomy is the girl in the well who is told "it puts the lotion on the skin". So yea, lots of movies and laziness today but seeing as I have the bruises on my knee caps and salt in my hair to prove I was in the water earlier I don't mind. Up to Surfer's to chill with everyone tomorrow and then classes start next week so a little down time is good.